The quick answer
To research land for metal detecting, start by speaking to the landowner, checking old maps, looking at modern satellite imagery, studying field names, researching local history, checking nearby recorded finds, and then creating a simple search plan based on old routes, lost buildings, gathering places, water sources, field boundaries and areas of past human activity.
The golden rule:
You are not looking for treasure first. You are looking for where people used to walk, work, meet, trade, live, lose things and throw things away.
Metal detecting research
How To Research Land For Metal Detecting
A practical beginner guide to using old maps, Google Earth, field names, local history and common-sense search planning to work out where to detect on a permission.
Quick note before we start:
Research does not replace permission. It also does not give you the right to detect protected land. Before detecting anywhere new, make sure you have permission and check whether the land includes scheduled monuments, SSSIs, protected habitats, stewardship restrictions or other limits. For the full legal background, read the UK Metal Detecting Laws & Code Of Conduct guide.
Sometimes the research pays off beautifully. Sometimes the most promising-looking spot produces nothing but shotgun caps, lead and bits off a tractor. That is detecting. But good research gives you a plan, and a plan is better than wandering around like a lost badger.
Why research matters before you detect
A field is not just a field.
It might look empty now, but 100, 300 or 800 years ago it could have had a footpath running across it, a cottage in the corner, a mill nearby, a fairground on the edge, a chapel next door, an old lane through the middle, or a stream crossing where people gathered and dropped things.
Research helps you spot those clues before you waste all your energy searching the wrong area.
That does not mean every old map clue leads to finds. If only it were that easy. A building marked on an old map might have been demolished and cleared properly. An old track might have been used for centuries or barely used at all. A promising field name might mean something exciting, or it might be one of those historic naming quirks that sends you on a wild goose chase.
But research stacks the odds slightly more in your favour.
Good research can help you find:
- Old footpaths and trackways.
- Lost cottages, farms and buildings.
- Former field boundaries.
- Old ponds, wells and stream crossings.
- Sites of fairs, markets, gatherings or events.
- Ridge and furrow, crop marks and soil marks.
- Areas where people worked, rested or travelled.
- Places to avoid because of legal or environmental restrictions.
The aim is not to overthink everything. The aim is to turn a big blank permission into a handful of sensible places to search first.
The mistake beginners make on a new permission
The classic beginner mistake is getting a new permission and charging straight into the first field without a plan.
I understand why it happens. You are excited. You have finally got somewhere to detect. The detector is in your hand and all you want to do is hear that first signal.
But if the permission has multiple fields, old boundaries, footpaths, slopes, wet areas, buildings nearby or historic features, you are almost certainly better off spending a little bit of time researching before you start.
My honest advice:
Do not try to detect the whole permission in one go. Pick a few high-interest areas, search them properly, make notes, then build from there.
You are not just covering ground. You are learning the permission.
What are you actually looking for?
When researching land, beginners often ask, “Where would treasure be?”
I think that is the wrong first question.
A better question is, “Where would people have been?”
Most detecting finds are not hidden treasure. They are dropped objects, lost objects, broken objects, discarded objects and everyday things that ended up in the soil. Coins, buckles, buttons, thimbles, tokens, musket balls, lead weights, harness fittings and all the strange little bits that keep us guessing.
So you are looking for human activity. Where people walked. Where they worked. Where they crossed water. Where they entered fields. Where they met. Where animals were handled. Where buildings once stood. Where old lanes ran. Where people had reason to stop.
| Clue | Why it matters | What you might search |
|---|---|---|
| Old footpath | People repeatedly walked the same route. | Along the line, old entrances, junctions and stopping points. |
| Lost building | Domestic and working activity may have left objects behind. | Around the footprint, entrances, yards and nearby paths. |
| Stream crossing | People and animals often funnelled through crossing points. | Banks, approach routes and old track intersections. |
| Field boundary | Boundaries can preserve older routes and activity lines. | Hedgerows, corners, gateways and boundary changes. |
| High ground | People often used higher, drier ground for travel and settlement. | Ridges, slopes, viewpoints and dry routes. |
| Old gathering place | Fairs, markets, chapels, inns and greens can mean repeated activity. | Edges, approaches, entrances and nearby fields. |
Start with the landowner
Before you get lost in old maps and satellite imagery, speak to the person who knows the land.
Farmers and landowners often know things maps do not tell you. They may know where old pottery comes up after ploughing, where a cottage once stood, where an old track ran, where the soil changes, where the wet patches are, where rubbish has been tipped, where livestock gather, and where you absolutely should not go.
They may also know the land’s recent history. That can be just as useful as medieval history. A field used for village events, camping, wartime activity, horse shows, car boots or old farmyards may produce plenty of interesting finds.
Questions worth asking:
- Are there any old buildings, cottages or farm structures that have disappeared?
- Were any fields used for events, fairs, camping, parking or grazing?
- Are there fields that always produce pottery, brick, tile or old glass?
- Are there old tracks, gateways or hollow ways you know about?
- Are any areas off limits because of crops, livestock, shooting, drainage or restrictions?
- Are there any known archaeological or protected areas?
- Where would you prefer me to start?
That last question matters. If the landowner wants you in a certain area first, respect that. Permissions are built on trust, not just research.
Research method one
Using old maps for metal detecting research
Old maps are one of the best tools a detectorist can use. For UK research the free, georeferenced historic Ordnance Survey maps at the National Library of Scotland maps site are the ones most detectorists reach for first.
Modern fields can look plain and boring, but old maps can show you what used to be there. Roads that no longer exist. Field boundaries that have been removed. Old cottages. Mills. Chapels. Inns. Quarries. Ponds. Wells. Footpaths. Tracks. Farmyards. Railways. Brickworks. The list goes on.
The trick is not just looking at an old map and thinking, “old equals good”. The trick is comparing old maps with modern satellite imagery and asking what changed.

Things to look for on old maps
- Old footpaths crossing fields.
- Roads or lanes that have been moved or removed.
- Lost buildings, cottages or farmsteads.
- Old schools, chapels, churches, inns or smithies.
- Ponds, wells, springs and stream crossings.
- Field boundaries that no longer exist.
- Names like Mill Field, Chapel Close, Hall Field or Fair Field.
- Quarries, pits, brickworks, kilns or industrial features.
- Old orchards, paddocks, yards and gardens.
- Parish boundaries and old settlement edges.
When using old maps, pay attention to what has disappeared. A removed hedge line may still have a trail of lost items along it. A former building may leave brick, tile, pottery and domestic rubbish. An old path may still show as a faint line in crops or soil.
Also pay attention to map dates. A feature shown on an 1880s map might not be medieval. It might be Victorian. That is still interesting, but do not convince yourself every square on an old map is Saxon treasure headquarters.
Beginner tip:
Compare at least two or three map dates if you can. If a feature appears on one map and disappears on the next, that change can be useful.
Old maps are clues, not guarantees. Use them to build a search plan, not to convince yourself you are definitely about to find a hoard by lunchtime.
Old map clues and what they might mean
Some map features are more useful than others. This table gives you a beginner-friendly way to think about them.
| Old map feature | Why it may matter | Where to search first | Reality check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old footpath | Repeated movement across the land. | Path line, junctions, gateways, bends and entrances. | You still need permission. Public right of way does not mean detecting permission. |
| Lost cottage | Domestic rubbish, coins, buttons and work-related losses. | Building footprint, yard, path to road, garden edge. | Can be full of iron, brick, glass and modern clearance rubbish. |
| Old pond or well | Water sources attracted people and animals. | Approach routes, dry edges, track crossings. | Avoid unsafe wet ground and do not damage habitats. |
| Inn, chapel or school | People gathered, travelled, waited and lost things. | Approach paths, roadside edges, nearby fields. | Check ownership and protected status carefully. |
| Old boundary | Boundaries can preserve historic movement lines. | Hedge lines, old corners, gateways, stiles. | Boundaries can also be full of modern rubbish. |
| Quarry, pit or works | Work activity can leave tools, tokens and everyday losses. | Tracks in and out, level working areas, spoil edges. | Expect lots of iron and industrial junk. |
Research method two
Using Google Earth for metal detecting research
Google Earth is one of the most useful modern tools for researching a permission.
Old maps show you what used to be there. Google Earth helps you compare that with what is there now. You can look at field shapes, old boundaries, crop marks, soil marks, access points, slopes, watercourses, tracks, gateways, footpaths and possible areas of past activity.
The historical imagery feature is especially useful because fields can look completely different depending on the year, season, crop, weather and lighting. One image might show nothing. Another might reveal a clear crop mark, old boundary or building platform.
Things to look for on Google Earth
- Crop marks showing old ditches, tracks or structures.
- Soil marks after ploughing.
- Ridge and furrow patterns.
- Faint lines where hedges or paths once ran.
- Building platforms or rectangular marks.
- Old gateways and field entrances.
- Dry higher ground and natural routes.
- Stream crossings, ponds and wet areas.
- Modern dumping areas to avoid.
- Safe parking and access routes agreed with the landowner.
Do not treat every mark in a field as archaeology. Some marks are drainage, tractor lines, crop stress, modern disturbance, animal paths or your imagination having a little party. Compare the imagery with old maps and the actual land before making big conclusions.
Google Earth is brilliant, but it is not magic. It gives clues. You still have to walk the land, listen to your detector and see what the ground actually says.
A simple Google Earth research process
You do not need to become a mapping expert. A simple process is enough for most permissions.
Step-by-step method
- Search for the permission area.
- Mark the field boundaries you are allowed to detect.
- Check access points, parking and gates.
- Use historical imagery to compare different years.
- Look for old lines, marks, boundaries, tracks and building shapes.
- Compare what you see with old maps.
- Make a shortlist of three to five areas to search first.
- Save notes or screenshots so you can refer back later.
Try not to make the plan too complicated. You are not preparing a military operation. You are giving yourself a sensible starting point.
A good plan might be as simple as: “Search the old path line first, then the former building corner, then the high ridge near the stream crossing.”
Bonus research method
Using LiDAR for metal detecting research
LiDAR is one of those research tools that sounds complicated at first, but the basic idea is fairly simple.
LiDAR stands for Light Detection and Ranging. In England the Environment Agency’s National LiDAR Programme data is freely available to view. In plain English, it uses laser scanning to measure the shape of the ground. The clever bit is that it can help reveal lumps, bumps, banks, ditches, platforms, old trackways, ridge and furrow, earthworks and other features that are not always obvious on normal satellite images.
For metal detecting research, LiDAR can be especially useful when old maps and Google Earth do not tell the full story. A field might look flat from above, but LiDAR may show old boundaries, hollow ways, building platforms or earthworks that are difficult to see at ground level.
It can also be useful in woodland, where normal aerial imagery is often blocked by tree cover. That does not mean you can detect woodland without permission, of course. It just means LiDAR can sometimes show landscape features hidden beneath the trees.

LiDAR can help you spot:
- Ridge and furrow from old cultivation.
- Old hollow ways and sunken tracks.
- Earth banks, ditches and field systems.
- Possible building platforms.
- Old pond edges, quarry pits and extraction areas.
- Levelled or damaged earthworks.
- Landscape features hidden by woodland.
- Areas that may need extra legal or archaeological checking before detecting.
The important thing is not to treat every bump on a LiDAR image as a secret treasure site. Some features are natural. Some are modern. Some are drainage, quarrying, landscaping, animal movement, forestry work or old agricultural activity. Like old maps and Google Earth, LiDAR gives you clues, not guarantees.
It is also where you need to be extra responsible. If LiDAR shows clear earthworks, a possible settlement, a mound, a defensive feature, an old enclosure or anything that looks archaeologically sensitive, that is not your cue to rush out with a detector. It is your cue to check whether the site is protected and whether detecting there is allowed at all.
Responsible LiDAR rule:
Use LiDAR to understand the landscape, not to target protected archaeology. If a feature looks important, check it before detecting anywhere near it.
For beginners, I would use LiDAR as a second-stage research tool. Start with permission, old maps, Google Earth and the landowner’s knowledge. Then use LiDAR to see whether the shape of the land supports what your other research is telling you.
| LiDAR clue | What it might suggest | What to do next |
|---|---|---|
| Long sunken line | Old hollow way, track or route across the land. | Compare with old maps and permission boundaries. |
| Parallel ridges | Ridge and furrow or old cultivation. | Check whether the area is protected or part of visible earthworks. |
| Rectangular platform | Possible former building, structure or modern ground disturbance. | Compare with old maps, aerial imagery and local history. |
| Banks and ditches | Old boundaries, enclosures, drainage or archaeological features. | Check protected status before detecting nearby. |
| Pits or hollows | Old quarrying, extraction, ponds, tree throws or modern disturbance. | Treat as a clue, not a certainty. |
Used properly, LiDAR can make your research much stronger. Used badly, it can send you chasing random bumps or, worse, into places you should not be detecting. Treat it with respect.
Research method three
Field names and what they can tell you
Field names can be brilliant clues.
Not always. Some are boring. Some are misleading. Some changed over time. Some were named after people, shapes, animals, crops or local nicknames. But every now and then, a field name gives you a proper nudge.
If the landowner knows the old field names, write them down. If you can find tithe maps, estate maps, old deeds or local history records, field names can sometimes help you understand what the land was used for.
| Field name clue | Possible meaning | Beginner caution |
|---|---|---|
| Chapel Field | May suggest a chapel, religious land or nearby historic feature. | Check protected status before getting excited. |
| Mill Field | Could link to a windmill, watermill or mill route. | The mill may not have been in that exact field. |
| Hall Close | May relate to a manor, hall or estate land. | Could simply be a later estate name. |
| Fair Field | May suggest gatherings, markets or local events. | Confirm with local history if possible. |
| Lower Meadow | Wet or low-lying grazing land. | May be poor detecting ground or restricted habitat. |
| Brick Kiln Close | Industrial or craft activity. | Expect iron, slag, brick and industrial junk. |
Field names are clues, not proof. Use them alongside maps, local history and what you actually find on the ground.
Research method four
Using local history for detecting research
Local history can be absolute gold for metal detecting research.
I do not just mean huge famous events. The little local details often matter more. Old fairs, lost pubs, village greens, footpaths to church, wartime camps, mills, brickworks, markets, schools, smithies, ferry points, old sports fields and vanished cottages can all point you towards human activity.
You can find this sort of information in all kinds of places.
Useful local history sources
- Village history websites.
- Local history books.
- Old newspapers and archives.
- Local Facebook groups.
- Parish records and tithe maps.
- Historic Environment Records, and the Archaeology Data Service.
- Old postcards and photographs.
- Church or chapel history pages.
- War memorial records.
- Talking to older locals, respectfully of course.
Do not underestimate people. An older local may remember where a farm cottage stood, where the village fete was held, where old cottages were demolished, or where coins used to be found after ploughing.
Just be polite. Do not barge into local groups asking where the treasure is buried. Ask about history, old paths, lost buildings and stories of the land.
Good question to ask:
“Does anyone remember what used to be on the fields behind [general area], or whether there were old cottages, paths or events there?”
You are more likely to get helpful answers if you sound interested in the history, not like you are mining the village for secret spots.
Research method five
Using the PAS database carefully
The Portable Antiquities Scheme database can be very useful for research, but it needs to be used responsibly.
It can show you the types of finds recorded in a wider area. That can help you understand the local history, common periods, object types and general activity around a parish or landscape.
What it should not become is a treasure map.
Do not use PAS records to target exact find spots, bother landowners, chase protected sites or assume that nearby recorded finds mean you can detect anywhere close by. Permission and protected-site checks still come first.
Better ways to use PAS records
- Look for broad patterns in the wider area.
- Learn what types of finds are common locally.
- Compare object dates with local history.
- Study similar finds to help with identification.
- Understand which periods are represented nearby.
- Use it as a clue, not a target list.
For example, if a wider area has a lot of Roman records, that tells you Roman activity existed locally. It does not mean your permission has Roman finds, and it definitely does not mean you should detect any scheduled Roman site nearby.
The responsible approach is to use PAS for context and education, then record your own eligible finds properly if you discover them. If you are unsure what something is, our guide on how to identify metal detecting finds walks through it.
Check protected sites before detecting
This is not the fun bit, but it is one of the most important parts of research.
Before detecting new land, you should check whether any part of the permission is protected, restricted or sensitive. The landowner may not always know, and even if they do, it is still your responsibility to avoid places you should not detect.
Check for:
- Scheduled monuments.
- Listed buildings and protected heritage assets.
- Registered parks, gardens and battlefields.
- Sites of Special Scientific Interest.
- Nature reserves and protected habitats.
- National Trust, MoD or other restricted land.
- Stewardship or environmental scheme restrictions.
- Known archaeological areas or visible earthworks.
If part of a permission includes a scheduled monument, do not detect it unless you have the correct official consent. Detecting on a scheduled monument without consent is a criminal offence, and normal landowner permission is not enough for protected heritage sites. You can check whether land is a Site of Special Scientific Interest using Natural England’s designated sites map.
If in doubt, stay away from the questionable area and get proper advice. There is always another patch of land. There is not another reputation once you have wrecked it.
Best places to search on a metal detecting permission
Once you have done your research, you need to turn it into actual searching.
This is where beginners can overcomplicate things. You do not need to detect every inch straight away. Start with the areas most likely to have seen repeated human activity.
Old path lines
People dropped things while walking. Search the path itself, junctions, bends and entrances.
Gateways
People stopped, opened gates, handled animals and adjusted clothing or equipment.
Field corners
Corners can collect activity, especially near old boundaries, gates, trees or shelter.
Lost building sites
Search around the footprint, entrances, yards and old garden areas, but expect junk.
High dry ground
Higher ground often made more sense for old travel, settlement and activity.
Water crossings
Streams, fords and old crossing points can concentrate movement.
Former boundaries
Removed hedges and old field lines can preserve older routes and activity.
Near old roads
Roadside edges, old lay-bys, inns, junctions and track entrances can be productive.
Different permissions need different thinking
Not every permission should be searched the same way.
A ploughed field, pasture field, stubble field, woodland permission and beach area all need slightly different planning. The research gives you clues, but the ground conditions decide how easy the detecting will be.
| Permission type | Research focus | Search advice |
|---|---|---|
| Ploughed field | Old routes, soil marks, pottery scatters, high ground. | Good for covering ground, but finds may be moved by ploughing. |
| Pasture | Old paths, former buildings, boundaries, ridge and furrow. | Dig neatly and avoid damaging turf. Signals may be deeper. |
| Stubble | Same as arable, but easier after harvest. | Watch coil control. Stubble can make beginners lift the coil too high. |
| Woodland | Old paths, boundaries, charcoal platforms, military or estate activity. | Avoid roots, protected habitats and sensitive archaeology. |
| Beach | Access points, busy areas, towel lines, old maps, tides. | Check legal access, tides, protected areas and your detector’s beach performance. |
How to turn research into a search plan
This is where research becomes useful.
It is easy to spend hours looking at maps, taking screenshots and convincing yourself you have cracked the code. But unless that turns into a simple field plan, it stays as research rather than detecting.
Keep your plan basic. Pick a few priority areas, decide the order, then search them properly.
A simple three-level search plan
- Priority 1: The best research clues, such as lost buildings, old paths or gateways.
- Priority 2: Good landscape clues, such as high ground, field corners or boundary lines.
- Priority 3: General coverage once the obvious areas have been checked.

Do not rush through Priority 1 areas. If you have identified an old path line, slow down and work it properly. Sweep from different angles. Search either side of the line, not just the exact line on the map. Old paths shift, maps are not perfect, and ploughing can move finds.
Good research deserves good detecting.
Example research plan for a new permission
Here is a simple example of how I would turn clues into a detecting plan.
| Research clue | Why it matters | Search plan | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old footpath crossed Field 2 | Repeated historic movement. | Search the mapped line, then 10 to 20 metres either side. | High |
| Cottage shown on 1880s map | Domestic activity and possible losses. | Search around footprint, yard area and path to road. | High |
| Removed hedge line | Old boundary and possible movement line. | Search old boundary and former gate positions. | Medium |
| High ridge near stream | Dry route and possible crossing activity. | Grid search ridge and approach to crossing. | Medium |
| Modern dumping area | Likely modern rubbish and frustration. | Avoid unless there is a specific reason to check it. | Low |
Walk the land before you properly detect it
If the landowner is happy for you to do so, walk the permission before you start detecting properly.
A ten-minute walk can tell you things maps will not. You might spot pottery, tile, brick, glass, slag, oyster shell, old trackways, banks, dips, wetter ground, rabbit scrapes, field entrances, old trees, building platforms or obvious modern rubbish patches.
This is also a good chance to confirm practical things: where to park, which gates to use, where livestock are, where crops start, where the ground is too wet, and whether the research plan actually makes sense once you are stood there.
Eyes-only clue:
Pottery, brick, tile, oyster shell and old glass on the surface can suggest past activity. It does not guarantee finds, but it is worth noting.
Research starts online, but the land itself gets the final say.
How to search researched areas properly
Once you pick a promising area, slow down.
A common mistake is rushing across the best area because you are excited, then moving on too quickly because the first few signals were rubbish. But old activity areas often include rubbish. Building sites, old paths and field corners can be full of iron, lead, foil, shotgun caps, buttons, buckles and strange bits that test your patience.
Good search habits
- Slow your sweep speed down.
- Keep the coil low and level.
- Overlap your swings.
- Search from more than one direction.
- Grid small high-interest areas.
- Dig enough signals to understand the patch.
- Make notes on where good finds and rubbish appear.
- Do not abandon a researched area after five minutes.
If the area is full of iron, consider using a smaller coil if you have one, or slow right down and listen carefully. Good targets can hide between junk. That does not mean every patch of iron is brilliant, but it does mean you should not instantly walk away just because it is noisy.
Research gets you into the right zone. Technique finds the targets.
Keep notes as you detect
This sounds boring. It is not.
Notes help you learn a permission properly. You might think you will remember where everything came from, but after a few outings, fields start blending together and you end up with “that button from somewhere near the hedge, maybe”.
Keep it simple. Use your phone, a notebook or a spreadsheet later. Just record enough to make the information useful.
Useful notes to keep
- Date and permission.
- Field name or number.
- Weather and ground conditions.
- Detector and settings used.
- Areas searched.
- Find types and rough locations.
- Heavy iron or rubbish patches.
- Areas to return to later.
- Photos of finds and field clues.
Over time, your notes will show patterns. That is when a permission starts to make sense.
Common metal detecting research mistakes
Research is brilliant, but it can also lead you down some silly rabbit holes if you are not careful.
Assuming old means good
An old feature is only a clue. It does not guarantee finds.
Ignoring permission limits
Your research might point outside your agreed area. Do not follow it without permission.
Forgetting protected sites
If research finds archaeology, check whether it is protected before detecting nearby.
Over-relying on PAS
PAS is for context and recording, not for chasing exact find spots.
Ignoring the landowner
The person who works the land may know more than your laptop does.
Researching more than detecting
At some point, you need to stop making maps and get out there.
Simple research workflow for beginners
Here is the whole process in plain English.
- Confirm exactly where you have permission to detect.
- Ask the landowner what they know about the land.
- Check old maps for paths, buildings, boundaries and activity clues.
- Compare old maps with Google Earth and historical imagery.
- Check protected sites and environmental restrictions.
- Research local history and field names.
- Use PAS for broad local context, not exact targeting.
- Choose three to five priority search areas.
- Walk the land and adjust your plan.
- Detect slowly, record finds and update your plan after each visit.
That is enough. You do not need a PhD in landscape archaeology to improve your odds. You just need a sensible system.
Summary: how to research land for metal detecting
Researching land for metal detecting is about finding clues to past human activity.
Start with the landowner. Then use old maps, Google Earth, field names, local history, PAS records and protected-site checks to build a simple search plan.
Look for old paths, lost buildings, gateways, field boundaries, water crossings, high dry ground, gathering places and areas where people had reason to stop, work, travel or meet.
Do not use research as an excuse to detect somewhere you do not have permission. Do not target protected sites. Do not treat PAS like a treasure map. And do not spend so long researching that you never actually go detecting.
Good research will not guarantee good finds, but it will make you a better detectorist. It teaches you to read the land, understand local history and make every permission more interesting.
Next beginner guide
Ready to put your research into practice?
Once you have a plan, the next step is learning how to work the ground properly, check signals and avoid rushing over good targets.
FAQs about researching land for metal detecting
What is the best way to research land for metal detecting?
Start by speaking to the landowner, then compare old maps with modern satellite imagery. Look for old paths, lost buildings, field boundaries, water sources, high ground and places where people would have gathered, worked or travelled.
Are old maps useful for metal detecting?
Yes, old maps can be very useful. They can show former buildings, lanes, footpaths, ponds, boundaries, mills, chapels, schools and other features that no longer exist on the modern landscape.
Can Google Earth help with metal detecting research?
Yes. Google Earth can help you spot crop marks, soil marks, old boundaries, ridge and furrow, field entrances, tracks, watercourses and changes in the landscape. Historical imagery is especially useful.
What are the best places to search on a permission?
Good places to start include old path lines, gateways, field corners, former building sites, high dry ground, water crossings, removed boundaries and areas close to old roads or gathering places.
Should I use the PAS database for research?
The PAS database can be useful for understanding the wider local history and common types of finds in an area, but it should not be used as a treasure map or to target exact find spots.
Should I check for scheduled monuments before detecting?
Yes. Always check for protected heritage sites and environmental restrictions before detecting new land. Landowner permission does not override scheduled monument protection or other legal restrictions.
How many places should I choose before detecting a new permission?
For a first visit, choose three to five priority areas. That gives you enough structure without making the day too complicated. You can always expand your search after learning the land.
Can research guarantee better finds?
No. Research improves your chances, but it does not guarantee finds. Metal detecting still involves patience, technique, luck and plenty of rubbish signals.
Sources and further reading
These links support the guidance above and provide further reading. Check country-specific rules where noted.
- Google Earth: View a map over time: Official instructions for using historical imagery and understanding image availability.
- Environment Agency National LiDAR Programme: Official elevation data covering England.
- Portable Antiquities Scheme database: Searchable find records for local historical context and identification, not permission or target selection.
- Historic England: Section 42 Consent: Official guidance on metal detecting consent for scheduled monuments in England.
- Natural England Designated Sites View: Official lookup for SSSIs and other designated nature sites in England.
- PAS Cymru: Official Welsh guidance on recording archaeological finds.

